On the 5th of November, the Devon market town of Ottery St Mary does something almost no other town in England still does: it sets itself on fire. Locals run through the narrow streets carrying flaming barrels of tar on their backs, blackened and roaring, surrounded by crowds packed into every doorway and side lane. It is one of the most genuinely extraordinary local traditions in Britain, and from Hole Mill it is a 25-minute drive. If your stay aligns with the 5th of November, this is the practical guide.

The rest of the year, Ottery is a perfectly pleasant Devon market town with a striking parish church (a miniature Exeter Cathedral), the River Otter walks and several worthwhile day-trip activities. We will cover both.

What the Tar Barrels actually are

Every year on Bonfire Night (5 November), Ottery St Mary holds an event called The Tar Barrels — also known officially as The Ottery Tar Barrels Carnival. The tradition is simple, intense and not for the faint-hearted:

  • Seventeen barrels (mostly old beer barrels, soaked in tar) are lit one by one through the evening.
  • Each barrel is carried on a runner's back through the streets — a job done bare-handed (with sacking-cloth gloves and protective clothing) by men, women and children of the participating families.
  • The runners pass the burning barrels from one to another, running through narrow lanes, doorways, and crowds.
  • Crowds part to let the runners through; sparks fly; people get singed.
  • The runners are exclusively from a small number of local families. The tradition is inherited; you cannot just turn up and run.

There are smaller barrels through the afternoon for women and children, and the largest "men's barrels" run later in the evening. The peak barrels weigh up to 30 kilograms and are seriously hot.

It is one of the most authentic and unmodernised Bonfire Night traditions in England. There are no ropes, no barriers between the runners and the crowd, no health-and-safety theatre. The only protection is the runners' good sense and the practised skill of generations of local families.

Why it happens

The exact origin is uncertain. Local tradition links it variously to:

  • The repulse of the Spanish Armada in 1588 (one folk theory: the barrels celebrate signals lit on the cliffs to warn against invasion).
  • The Gunpowder Plot of 1605 (alongside other Bonfire Night traditions).
  • A pagan fire-festival predating both (one of several fire-related Devon traditions surviving from before the Reformation).

The truth is probably a mix of all three — a local fire ceremony, given a Reformation-era purpose around the Gunpowder Plot, that has continued in unbroken local custom since at least the 1600s.

What the day looks like

A typical 5th of November in Ottery St Mary:

  • Afternoon: the smaller women's and children's barrels run through the streets from around 4 pm. These are smaller, slower, and a good way to introduce children to the spectacle.
  • 5-7 pm: intermediate barrels.
  • 8 pm onwards: the men's barrels begin — increasingly large barrels, increasingly intense.
  • Throughout the day: food stalls, fairground rides on Ottery's St Saviour's Meadow, hot drinks, and a serious crowd management operation.
  • Late evening (around 10 pm): the largest barrel of all, finishing the evening with the most intense moment.

The streets are extraordinarily packed — the population of Ottery (around 8,000) swells to around 30,000-40,000 on the night. You will not get a quiet view; you will be standing close to fires being run past you.

Practical information

Date: 5th November every year, regardless of weekday. Sometimes moved by a day if it falls on a Sunday — check the Ottery Tar Barrels website for the year's specific arrangements.

Distance from Hole Mill: approximately 12 miles by road, 25-30 minutes by car.

Arrival: arrive by 4 pm at the latest if you want to see the afternoon barrels. By 6 pm the town is gridlocked and parking is essentially impossible. Most visitors take the park-and-ride scheme operated for the night — search "Ottery Tar Barrels park and ride" for current arrangements.

Cost: small charge for entry to the town centre on the night (proceeds support the local fire brigade and St John Ambulance). A few pounds per person.

Children: the afternoon barrels are children-friendly with care. The evening barrels are not — the crowds are dense and the fires are intense. Use your judgement.

Dress code: layer up — November in Devon is cold. Wear clothes you don't mind being slightly singed (sparks fly into the crowd). Sturdy, closed shoes are essential.

Photography: allowed but difficult — the streets are packed, the action is fast, and most professional photographers are positioned in advance. Phone cameras struggle with the contrast between flames and dark streets.

Safety: the tradition is, statistically, surprisingly safe — a serious local tradition with experienced runners and a well-organised fire crew on standby. Minor burns and singed clothing are common; serious injuries are rare. Stay alert, listen to the marshals, and step back when a barrel is approaching.

Combining with the rest of the day

Most Hole Mill guests who go to the Tar Barrels make a full day of it:

  • Morning: explore Ottery itself — the parish church, the high street, the river.
  • Lunch: in town at one of the local pubs (book if going on the night itself — restaurants are extremely busy).
  • Afternoon: stay for the children's barrels.
  • Evening: stay for the men's barrels.
  • Late evening: drive back to Hole Mill (allow extra time — the roads back are slow).

If you do not want to drive home late, several local hotels run special "Tar Barrels" packages that include accommodation and a guided spot in the crowd.

Ottery St Mary the rest of the year

The rest of the year, Ottery is a perfectly pleasant Devon market town. Things worth doing:

St Mary's Church

The parish church of Ottery St Mary, built between 1338 and 1342 by John de Grandisson, Bishop of Exeter, in deliberate imitation of Exeter Cathedral. The result is one of the largest parish churches in Devon — a "miniature cathedral" with twin towers, a nave with stone vaulting, an astronomical clock from the 14th century (one of the oldest still working in Britain), and a beautifully carved 15th-century rood screen.

Free entry, almost always open during the day. Allow 60-90 minutes.

The River Otter

The same River Otter as on the wild beavers walk, but here in its upper reaches. Walking paths run along the river through the town and out into farmland. About 2-3 miles of riverside paths in total, suitable for an afternoon walk.

Coleridge's house

Samuel Taylor Coleridge was born in Ottery St Mary in 1772, in the vicarage attached to the parish church. The house is now a private residence but a small plaque marks the site. The poet's Frost at Midnight references Ottery directly.

The Tumbling Weir

A circular weir on the River Otter in the centre of town — a small but unusual piece of 18th-century engineering, designed to manage the river's flow into the local mill leats. Pleasing to look at; quick to visit.

The Ottery Carnival

Apart from the Tar Barrels, Ottery holds a less-famous but enjoyable summer carnival in early August — a procession through the town, fairground rides, food stalls. Lower-key than the November event but worth catching if your stay aligns.

Where to eat in Ottery

The London Inn in the town centre is a long-established local pub, doing reliable bar food. The Volunteer Inn is another decent traditional option. Café Boutique on the high street does good coffee and lunches. For a smarter dinner, drive 10 minutes to The Tumbling Weir Hotel which has a small restaurant.

Practical tips

  • If you are going for the Tar Barrels specifically, book accommodation at Hole Mill for that week well in advance — early November is one of the more popular booking weeks in the year.
  • Consider going one year first to watch, then a second year to plan more carefully — the event rewards repeat visits.
  • Arrive on 5th November itself — there are no rehearsals or preview events.
  • Check the Tar Barrels website for the current year's arrangements, road closures, parking information and any restrictions.

The Tar Barrels are one of the most genuinely extraordinary things you can do on a Devon holiday — a properly authentic, unmodernised, slightly insane local tradition surviving in unbroken form from the 1600s. From Hole Mill it is a 25-minute drive. Check our availability for early November and we'll talk you through the practicalities. The rest of the year, Ottery St Mary is well worth a half-day visit on its own merits.